11/01/2011

Budapest

This past weekend, I went to Budapest by bus. That's right, by bus. Thanks to the fact that one of the people I was traveling with had distant relatives in Budapest, we were shown around the city by locals, and we enjoyed the best of the local cuisine.
In particular, I found dinner with the Balasko's to be the most insightful. It's one thing to dine at a traditional restaurant, but entirely different to be in the home of total Hungarians. The three of us from WVU ate with this complex family, but could still see what was probably absolute tradition. There was the man of the house and his son from his first marriage (who had brought his girlfriend of six years), the man's new wife and two-month-old daughter, and the man's mother-in-law. Later on, a friend from Italy made a guest appearance, but didn't join us at the table.
Upon arrival, we were told to make ourselves at home, but not in so many words: "Do not be like that-smile!" We were told he mother-in-law spoke no English, and I never learned her name. She stayed in the kitchen, behind a closed door, and cooked, cleaned, arranged dishes, and wore an adorable headscarf. According to the son, she did this for a hobby, and to help the wife with her new baby. When we tried to compliment her on her cooking, even the phrase "Very good!" with a thumbs-up had to be translated for her. And she did deserve the compliment.
The meal was fantastic. It started off with two little glasses of Polinka (a traditional Hungarian drink made from plums) that had been bought off a local farmer, and flavored by the wife with plums, vanilla, honey, and cinnamon. The first course after this was a chicken noodle soup. I was fortunate enough to end up with the gizzard, obviously, but it was actually good. Then, we were given Slovenian beer, and the table was laden with three meat courses, rice, and potatoes. For dessert, there was a dish not unlike trifle, but with cherries from their yard, and pomegranate seeds on top, finished off with Hungarian sweet merlot. So yes, a delicious dinner that left us full for two days.
The chance to go to Hungary and spend an evening in someone's home is completely invaluable. On top of that, the places we were able to see, and the things we were able to learn about the city were a good balance between the things a tourist should see, and the opportunity to see them as a local would. I think this trip to Budapest was a greatly eye-opening experience as we had a man familiar with the culture before and after the Iron Curtain's effects to tell us about how the city has changed, and how much better it is.
One thing about Hungarians, apparently, is that they aren't afraid to be completely open once you know them. This helped us see the man's experience more clearly, and to understand the culture a little better than we would, had we spent these two nights in Budapest on our own. It's important when taking short trips to foreign places to immerse oneself in the culture as much as possible to make the most of the trip, and having the Balasko's there with us showed us just enough of Hungary to make us want to come back again and again. I can't wait to see it again, and learn more, and see more. Who knows, maybe this little jaunt has helped me become a better traveler. We'll see.

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